It seems like yesterday on my last column.   Since then it’s been a busy Model A world as always.   Current projects, broke members cars, and a recent travel to the MARC Membership meet in Nashville, Indiana.  My wife Gina and I along with our Model A friends Gene & Janie Roehl drove our A’s over from St Louis area to Indiana for the meet.  It was a wonderful brief getaway trip and the area was superb.  Special thanks to John Prohaska and their team who put on a fabulous meet.  Complete with a great welcome social, seminars, both judging and technical, a  local tour and plenty of places to eat.  “A” great time as they say.

 

I will say that Ron Ehrenofer seemed to be enjoying his retirement at the meet.  The photo below was at one of our night time ice cream shops in Nashville, Indiana.

 

 

 

 

Question

I have a 31 Fordor and I have used CD-2 added to my fuel fill ups. It is no longer available.  What other brand should I buy.

Barbara

 

Answer

I’m generally not a fan of fuel or oil additives with a few exceptions in some cases.

I did a little brief research on it and it seems like it is mostly a detergent additive, both the fuel and oil.  In my opinion there is not a lot of value to using it.  Many Model A community folks like the Marvel Mystery oil adding a little with the fuel in every tank or so.    If you were adding it for a  “lead additive
it is really not necessary for Model A’s .   I don’t personally use it but some feel more comfortable with using something and want a fuel cleaner, I would use seafoam.  Again, it is not necessary. It is your choice.  I think the important thing is to use good quality gasoline, and if the car is sitting to start it and run it every month or several weeks.  The best thing you can do is to “use the car”.  If the fuel is sitting long term a little “stabil” fuel stabilizer helps to keep the fuel fresher.  I use it in our old boat for winter storage.

 

 

Question

I am trying to match Manila Brown and Gun Metal Blue from PPG’s DDL.  Sadly discontinued.

Jon M.

Answer

Ken Ehrenhofer and I have had several of these conversations.  Some of the products we’ve used over the years with formulas from PPG Concept which is discontinued as well as some of the Sherwin Williams line I’ve used are no longer produced.  Formula’s/colors sadly don’t cross over.  It is a manual process.  Ken is working on it I know.  The Camera match on a panel will get it to the closest stock electronically cataloged color but it’s a manual match and spray out from there with continual tweaking to get it there.  Ken is the master on this one…. And it is always a “work in progress” as they say.  More to come on this down the road.

 

 

 Question

My battery keeps running down, should I put on a battery cutoff or where do I go from here?

 

Answer

A questions frequently asked.. as electrical seems to be a common area.  I will first say…. Please come to our MARC Meet this summer in Gettysburg.  I am putting on a “Roadside Troubleshooting seminar” that will be helpful in isolating electrical and fuel issues.   One of the 50 GREAT REASONS to attend MARC Meets!

 

I would first isolate to see what is draining your battery.  Yes, it can be a dying battery, however, probably there is something else going on.  Using a volt/ohm meter helps make it easier and to pinpoint quicker.  Disconnect the light harness from the Generator or alternator.  With the lights off and one lead of your meter to ground and the other to the light harness lead you just took off, with your meter on ohms  lowest scale you should have a 1 ( which is an open) on your meter. If it is showing something else you may have a short.  Common issues are headlight switch, stoplight switch, and/or turn signals if  you have them. Check them all.  The stoplight switch is a common problem of adjustment or function and many times if the brake pedal doesn’t return all the way the switch can stay activated, thus draining the battery. Also, sticking cutouts, and sometimes failing alternators if so equipped can also be causes of battery drain. Don’t ignore your dash light either.

Battery disconnects are OK , but placing them strategically and cleanly both mount wise and electrically are a task that needs carefull attention to detail.

I am a fan of the inline fuse and not so much of the battery cutoff switches.

Use your meter, keep me posted. Hope to see you at Gettysburg!

 

Question

I may need shocks.. but being they are so expensive how can I tell? How can I tell if my shocks are working?

George W.

 

 

Answer

The purpose of the shocks is to absorb and dampen the oscillations of the springs and control the movement of the suspension.  So having said that, they must be able to move.

Note there are CW shocks and CCW ( at diagonals ) on the car.

Disconnect them from the shock ball on the front perch or rear shock ball.  Will the shock move up and down? If it moves easily it is most likely not working due to low fluid.  Add hydraulic fluid but do not fill to the top.  It must have room to transfer from one chamber to another. See if that helps.   If the shock is unmovable it is toast and may be rebuildable, but most likely replacement is in order.  If the shocks are leaking they most likely need rebuilding.  We are lucky to have several original style replacements on the market right now.  Albeit expensive but they have a very good track record.  For the more “go car” there is an excellent modern style shock kit from Brattons I have installed and I really like them for a fraction of the cost of the original style.

NOTE:  an important note when inspecting shocks.  Make sure the BRAKE RODS, are not touching the shock arms or are bent.  It is not uncommon for this to occur when brake return rod springs are not canted out enough and adjusted properly.  Later 31 Ford redesigned the front brake actuating arms to allow more clearance on the fronts.

 

 

 

Question

I seem to have a bit of play in the front Hub, yet the large castle nut seems snug.

Jim P.

 

Answer

It is most likely an enlarged front hub on the outer snout of the hub.  The race may not be any longer captured tight.  Remove the front hub and drum.  Put 2 fingers in the small outer hub race and see if it will turn or is tight.  My bet is it is not.  This is actually very common.  Many hubs get overtightend which causes the hubs to expand out. Many times you will see the races actually cracked.  Also, not tightening enough can cause the same issue.  The answer is to replace the hub and drum.  Check both sides.

New hubs and drums should be turned true.  I recommend the new cast iron drums.  You can purchase them already mounted from the suppliers if desired.  Adjust brakes as needed when replaced.

 

Question

I have a problem with my brakes squealing now and then. I hear you are good at brakes.    What do  you think is the problem?

 

Answer

It can be a number of things and sometimes a combination of.   First of all I am a fan of the cast iron brake drums.  We are blessed to have 3 manufacturers/suppliers of them and they are all good in my opinion. I have used them all. The brake shoes must be centered and located properly on the backing plate.  That is accomplished by the brake roller tracks, and the actuating anchor part number A-2042.   They make a good reproduction of that although I have had an issue or two from them.   The roller tracks must be within spec.  They can be replaced with the new hardened tracks or welded and surfaced down.

Also shoe holes themselves can be worn and cause issues.

Let Andrews repair books highlight the dimension and I believe replacement of t he roller tracks.

The top and bottom of the brake shoes should be chamfered or beveled slightly from the leading edge of the shoe to the rivet.  This will keep the shoe from grabbing and “vibrating “ which sometimes can be the culprit of the noise.  Sometimes drums and shoes get glazed over… which can also cause it.  I had discussions with one of my commercial brake suppliers that did my molded lining/bonded shoes out east about the noise on some of the “woven” linings.  He said the resin that is used to hold the material together is sometimes the culprit that can glaze over and cause noise.  Some of the lining available a few years ago seemed particularly susceptible.  I’m glad to report I believe that has been rectified.  Cast iron drums with molded/bonded lining or good woven, especially the new shoes seems to be very good.  Drums must be turned true.  It’s  absolutely necessary  to get shoes arced to fit the drums.  If you cannot find someone to arc the shoes let me know and I will help with a contact to get that done.  Many times there is someone in your local club that can help.

Brake restoration is a large comprehensive job.  Knowing what you are doing, it’s way more than replacing shoes and drums.   Bushings/shafts/levers/pins, etc must all restored properly and  then all adjusted and broke in for  optimum brake function and performance.

An excellent movie that Lloyd Kerr produced years ago was “How to Stop on a Dime” .

I suggest anyone wanting to do their own brake job to watch this closely. It highlights the detail…. And gives good insight.  A comprehensive brake job is as big a job and more than doing and engine rebuild.

 

 

 

 

Insert photo of can of graphite grease

Question

I am restoring my front and rear springs can you tell me how you do it?

Fred

 

Answer

I  take them apart and sandblast all of the leaves.

I then grind all of the  leaves smooth in the area that the spring above that leave contacted usually leaving a wear spot in the spring.  If you don’t do this they will not function properly.

You can then coat with a primer like  PPG – DP90 Epoxy primer on

all sides and let dry. You can choose to paint each leave or paint if desired as a single assembled unit using a good grade of enamel.  Using a new bolt to reassemble I apply a coating of Graphite grease (light coating) and then

tighten the center bolt. Make sure the top “square” head of the center bolt is square so that it will fit in the mating hole of the crossmember.  I like to make sure the bolt fits in the crossmember before I install it in the spring.   Install the new shackle bushings smooth and apply a top coat of black paint.

 

 

Question

Working on my two tooth steering column and I cannot find the parts I need to rebuild it. The Vendors do not have them in stock? What do I do now?

Sam

 

Answer

The supplier  (Argentina) has quit making them and the dealers are out of stock. Snyders is in the process of getting them made in the USA, it will be a good number of months yet  before they are available again.  Yes it is a bit of a delima.  You may find one out there at swap meets or local members that may have one.  You will need a “Worm” and a “Sector”.  They are both pending new production as of yet.

 

 

Insert photo of copper spray

Question

There seems to be a lot of different head gaskets available. Which one do you recommend?

Tom

 

Answer

I like the “BEST” brand graphite head gasket or the original style Copper head gasket with copper spray before assembly. I would discourage the use of the red silicone style gaskets.  They will fail, it’s just a matter of when.

 

Question

My engine has a blown  head gasket how do I remove the head?

 

Answer

Before I do anything I spray each nut/stud with penetrant.  Remove the nuts and spray again.. .several times.  The more you can get down the stud/head holes the better it will be for removal.   They actually make a tool now for removing the head and it mounts to the spark plug holes and pushes down against the studs after you have removed all head nuts pulling the head away from the block. It will only break it loose a little as the distance of the studs and the puller limits  the travel.  From there, I usually use some larger pry bars and taking into mind there are valves on the passenger side I pry front and back corners to lift it up.  Be very careful.  If it is a copper head gasket I like to split the copper halves of the gasket.   Spray penetrant again… a little rocking of the head will help it move.  Sometimes you get lucky and they come up easy, other times it is a chore. Remember your front studs are taller than  the rest. You can choose to leave the pump on or take it off.  Just be careful of the radiator.  A few wooden shim blocks will help once it comes up so it doesn’t fall down.  Again, careful of the valves. Patience, carefulness, and common sense should prevail. Once off block surfaces should be cleaned well and sucked clean everywhere. Heads should be blasted, cleaned, checked for cracks, surfaced to true up.  I use a machinist straight edge and it should be within .0025 . I check it straight and diagonal.  Studs are a judgment call.  We’ll leave that for another time!