Wow, what a busy summer. The Gettysburg Meet was superb, and I’ve been a busy Model A guy since home. Some of our own local Missouri Valley Region activities, fixing Model A’s, and unfortunately some family health issues. Like working on the Model A’s… one day at a time!
In August I visited the Erenhofer 40 Horse Ranch to see Ron & Ken and help with their super Seminar series at their place. Ken gave the Paint Seminar, Jim and Andy Stockinger gave the engine seminar, and yours truly gave the rear axle seminar. Special thanks to all of them for their contribution and help in teaching. It was great fun and times meeting some old friends and making new ones. What “A” great time as we say. We have so much to be thankful for. These wonderful cars that Henry and Edsel produced, great “A” friends, and of course a great source of parts and supplies from our pool of suppliers who get things produced to keep them running and help in restoring them. “A” Special thanks to all of them for sure. Also special thanks to John Costenbader for his informative “Brake Adjustment “ article in the last issue of the Model A News. His last statement is so true… “ They work good but must be adjusted perfectly”. So true. Some folks do brake work but miss getting them adjusted and dialed in. Also special thanks to Jim Zimmer for his tidbit on “Clutches”
Let me share one of my more recent experiences on my Slant window cabriolet that I had…. Another “A” friend of mine nearby asked if I wanted to go on a brief evening tour. As usual, I’m always busy, but I said sure. Probably an hour tops…. So off we go in the 68C for a brief scenic outing. I was running about 45 and it went from running well to poorly… at idle seemed OK. It seemed ignition but I did the usual, pull out the choke a bit and see if it improves ( more fuel). It did not. I made it to my friends a few more miles away and checked out the distributor and flicked the points, and then discovered the problem. The point tension was almost nothing. Seems as though the “New” “A” points that had probably been in less than 500 miles had the spring tension arm break near the pivot arm. In fact I didn’t see it in two pieces at first. I was able to get the old points off the pivot post and my friend mike had some old distributors I extracted a set of points from. A little grinding on the outer arm made them “quick change” units and fit them on my post, quick gap check and in 5 minutes we were headed down the road. Sun going down so time was of the essence!
I know what point spring tension does because I’m also a flathead V8 guy who owns a few Ford Heyer Stroboscopes, which are a blessing for V8 distributors. On V8’s the point tension is critical to making them run well. Points can float if too light and rubbing blocks wear quickly if too heavy. KR Wilson actually made a V106 spring tension gauge for this in the V8 years.
(Point spring broken photo) (Used quick replacement set to get us going)
Now on to some Questions…..
Question : I have an axle key that I can’t get out. As you can see I’ve tried to push it to the rear, chisel it out, vice grips, and more. Any help appreciated.
Greg F.
Answer: I must admit that is a rough one. I have had a few in my days. I might suggest trying a sharp smaller ( yet stout) screwdriver blade to see if you can get it up a bit on the outer edge. Torch heat on the key and then a quench, or a reheat and pry up while hot may do it while the key is soft. Also splitting it lengthwise with a cut off wheel but not going into the axle may also help weaken it for removal. It isn’t welded in so it has to give at some point. Keep me posted on this one Greg!
Question: My Tudor was running very rough and even backfiring. I made it home barely but currently can’t get it started and am at my wit’s end.
Answer: Let’s break it down a bit. Usually backfiring is unburned fuel that is burnt within the exhaust which causes the backfire. I’m fairly confident you have fuel flow and have more of an ignition problem. To be sure lets go through a few of the bases… Make sure you have adequate fuel flow, and following that let’s turn to the ignition and electrical. Do the horn and headlights work? That tells us if you have a fuse it is good.
With the key “on” look at your ammeter and with the starter turning is the ammeter deflecting ( wiggling)? If so that says that your points are opening and closing… Turn your ignition off and lets go to the steps below.
Step 1. If you have a meter, verify you have voltage ( should be around 6.3) at the battery connection, and then check on both sides of the terminal box studs, should both be the same at 6.3 .
Step 2. If above is 6.3 at those points check with ignition switch off that your voltage is 6.3 at both sides of the coil ( ignition switch off). 6.3 is correct on both sides off.
Step 3. if above checks out take off the distributor cap and body and lets check points and distributor. With points insulated ( paper or other insulator in between the points) check the voltage ( or test light) and it should be the same 6.3 with the “KEY ON”. ( Note with points closed and key on the coil is charging so the voltage will be lower).
Make sure your points are clean and gapped at .020 . Rotate engine to TDC with timing pin in detent.
Step 3: Check ignition pigtail between upper and lower plate. Do not rotate engine anymore at this point. Remove cam and rotate upper plate counterclockwise till it pops up. Examine wire pigtail and make sure wire and contacts are not contacting ground of the upper plate and only the point arm posts. Contact nut must be tight and have an insulator under it. Make repairs if necessary. My bet is you have an issue in this area.
Modern wireless point plates and legs along with pigtail issues are extremely common failures and source of ignition issues.
- Once upper plate is verified reposition it back and make sure the upper plate arm is located at the outward stop of the distributor body window ( out to passenger side). Once set install cam and locate for proper timing to #1. See the service bulletins for timing if you need or Les Andrews shop manual.
Once timed you can open and close the points and you should have spark from the high tension lead on your coil to a head nut. Hold it about ¼ inch away and it should produce a spark when cranking or manually opening and closing the points.
Drop me a line @marctech@modelarestorers.org and let me know how it pans out.
