March April 2025
Wow, last months Model A News had some great stuff in it. Excellent tech /information articles by Steve Plucker on secondary wells, Jim Townsend on Carb Throttle shaft fixes, Nelson Chegezy on Electrical Basics and tips. Also, Chris French on Exhaust issues and repair, and Doru Popescu and Tim Litzenberger on steering arms. I have a tip for them (and you) if you keep reading this column.
Ken & Helen also surprised me with a spread on our Model A Days start ups from September 2024. It was a fabulous surprise and of course “A” Great time as we say. My favorite was the unscheduled start up of the Mishawaka High School young folks restoring the 30 Tudor that hadn’t run yet. A great shot of inspiration to them and some learning and great times in the process. What a great group of young Model A fans!
If you haven’t been to a Model A Days event yet at Gilmore in Hickory Corners Michigan put it on your “to do” list for this year. You can view more info at Maffi.org. Hope to see you there!
We’re all looking forward to some spring time weather…which is around the bend, which means that you have some time to get the Model A whipped into shape yet for the spring and summer touring season.
A few notes about spring maintenance and things to do in addition to your normal oil changes, grease fittings, etc.
Special Lube Points
Generator- don’t forget the generator oil points if applicable. It’s amazing how many forget to give them a drop now and then.
Distributor – It too is neglected. Originally, the pull out oiler on the passenger side lubes the bottom bushing, top gets it, ( or not much) from the engine oil fume. On of the modern ideas is to use the “drilled” shafts and cam screw so you can lubricate by removing the rotor bug and if your cam screw and shaft are drilled place a few drops of oil to lube the upper bushing. Oiler on the side for the lower. I have head cars that have had squealing distributors on the roadside. Did you know that all Model A’s are equipped with an emergency oiler? It’s called a dipstick! Pull the dipstick out and place a drop on each of those points and it will help in a pinch. A pinpoint oiler is preferred but it will do if needed.
Throttle linkage – there are two oil holes in the upright stands of the throttle linkage at the back of the head. Many times there is junk in the oil holes, but lubricating them will keep your throttle working as it should. Work your throttle at the foot feed and make sure no floorboard interference is occurring. That could be dangerous. Fix if needed.
Water Pump – Many have the leakless style but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t need a shot of water pump grease now and then. Those equipped with the up front sealed bearing won’t apply here but the rear bushing typically needs a half a pump or so.
Also, a great time to make sure your fan blade is tight. Remove the cotter key and check. Many are loose and it’s a problem waiting to happen. Check tightness and install a new cotter key!
Wheel Bearings Front – Check front bearings and front outer races to make sure the y are snug in the hubs. It is not that all uncommon front races get loose in the hubs. This happens because of bearings running too tight and too loose, along with the steel front snout a bit inherently weak. Tires, rims, front hubs and drums and spindles take a lot of beating on roads of yesteryear and potholes in todays roads! If races are loose replacement of the hub/drum will be necessary. Repack bearings and preload to snug and back off one castle, then cotter key.
Wheel Bearings Rear – Even though the Model A axle housings have the grease fitting on the bottom of the housing it is wishful thinking and many pumps before grease gets through the housing past the axle and back up into the hub and bearing. Ford later discontinued that fitting in later V8 years. Just remove the rear hubs and first inspect the axle housing bottom side and repack the bearings, even if it’s a hand pack with the bearings still installed at minimum. Best to remove the seals, inspect rollers and repack/install new hub seals.
Torque the Axle nuts to an absolute minimum of 100 ft lbs and I like 125-150 if you have excellent axles. Most key ways, keys, and axles fail due to improper tightness of the axle nut. Careful axle inspection is necessary. Our cars are almost 100 years old and metal fatigue is real. I have seen several broken axles in my service time and also experienced one myself on my ’30 Tudor many years ago. ( photo enclosed).
This axle had an excellent keyway and torque to 150 ft lbs. I am not a metallurgist, but I can see where the weak spot was and greatest stress was at the keyway even with a tight axle and keyway. IMPORTANT NOTE – if you don’t think axles are that important remember that your wheel can come off with the axle stub and if you are traveling a decent speed on the road the outcome may not be a pleasant one!
A note on Axle Torque and threads. After about 350 plus rear axle rebuilds over my time I find and I think common sense and mechanical engineering is behind the fact that you are better of tighter than loose. I’ve seen nuts loose and barely more than finger tight.
More often than not those hubs and drums are or were in the process of being destroyed. Axles are getting harder to come by, so it’s important to preserve good ones with proper service. Keys worn on the sides are an indication that the axle keyway and/or hub and hub nut is running too loose and not fitting tightly enough. Try a new key. Don’t forget to inspect the inside of the hub too. The hub should fit the axle snugly with the key locking it all in tightly. I would suggest at least 100 Ft pounds, and even 125 or more is OK. Make sure the mating surfaces are smooth and not damaged. Dress if needed.
Would you leave your lug nuts loose? Of course not… so give proper attention to the Hub and drum, your motoring safety may depend on it!
With our cars aging more every year, like us as we get older we visit the doctor more frequently. Our good ole trusty A’s need careful service and attention as well.
It amazes me how Ford uncovered issues and revised their production for improvement while the cars were still in production! Case in point. Cowl body hold down use to be a washer in 1930…. firewall’s cracked at the bottom easily.. They revised to make it a re-enforced strap and corrected the failure cycle. They discovered and corrected the issue within one production year! Did they have to do that? Probably not, but they did. Don’t we wish that the auto manufacturers today would live by that thought process?
Now… on to a few questions….
Question Terminal Box
I noticed my terminal box studs are loose. It is a reproduction box. Do they all do this?
Mike S
Answer
The short answer is many do. The original terminal boxes had brass studs molded into the bakelite base and remained well designed and endured many years. Sadly, like many parts, they get replaced for one reason or another or if you’re car didn’t have one as a project you bought the reproduction. The repros have screw threads from the rear of the box that tighten on the inside captured nut. The repro box itself is plastic molded which melts easily with poor electrical connections. Unfortunately, when the repro units were assembled the screws were not always tightened. Which results in them loose from the start. This along with poor connections on the front wire connection side creates heat and the studs and the box becomes loose. If it’s really bad the screw head can short to the firewall. If you have a fuse installed inline it would have blown the fuse. If not you will have an electrical meltdown with the fuel tank above. Not a good scenario!
My fix and is a must. 1st, tighten the back screws on the reproduction boxes. Use 5 minute epoxy to fill the gap between the box screw and back of the box boss. This will keep if from coming out and shorting to the firewall. Make sure you have good connections on the front side of the box. Always run a rubber grommet on any ignition pigtail or popout cable. Split the grommet and place the split on the bottom side if need be. It will keep things from touching within the box and be as they should be.
You can use a small lock washer or electrical tooth washer under your front nuts to keep them tight. When installing repro boxes make sure the 4 box screws are right for the threaded inserts in your box.. and not too long.
If all of your connections are good and tight you should have the same voltage at your starter lug as you do at your terminal box studs and also both sides of the coil with ignition off. If one side is more than a 1/10th of a volt off you have a bad connection either at the terminal box or the ammeter. Aluminum ammeters are bad news! Repros aren’t great either, but better than not having one. Originals are best if you have one.
Question – Transmission
I hear a ticking noise in my transmission while in 2nd gear.
Answer
It is most likely a worn cluster gear and/or 2nd and 3rd slider gear. It is not uncommon for the case hardening of t he original gears to have worn and broken down. Uusually they get a little galling on them which results in the noise. You can drain the lube and remove the transmission top cover bolts ( 2 long , 4 short) on the trans top. Spray down gears with carb cleaner and inspect. NOTE” Do not start car with trans top off.
Sounds like a transmission overhaul in the future. Don’t forget the clutch too!
Question – Headlights
I have one headlight that is dim, the other is OK. I changed the bulb multiple times but cant seem to fix the issue.
Answer
Most likely a bad ground. Sometimes paint and rust in the headlight pivot needs cleaned to obtain a good ground. You can use a jumper wire from the other headlight bucket or bumper to see if your light gets bright. Remove the headlight and take a dremel tool or sandpaper and brighten up the metal to make a good positive ground .
As promised in the 1st paragraph, special thanks to Doru and Tim on their replacing steering arms ( page 28 in January / February issue) .
They suggest loosening the steering arms a bit to gain more access to the tie rod screw past the backing plate. My suggestion is that this can and is better served working on the linkage on the bench and vise than in the car. And then, once serviced reinstalled back in the car in one shot. So much easier than dealing with in the car.
Here’s the process:
- Remove the pitman arm lock bolt at sector, tap pitman arm off sector shaft.
- Loosen the front steering arm nuts and back off flush to the end of the shaft.
I use a long larger brass drift and hammer to dislodge the steering arm from the spindle. It may take a good size hammer to do so.
- Service on the bench, suggested to clean, debur refinish all components and assemble with reconditioned steering arms and steer eze kit. New caps and rubbers ensuing the caps spin on the arm bosses. Plugs should be about flush with properly restored parts. Test joints for tightness and cotter key on bench.
- Do drag link as well and install entire assembly from drivers side in and reinstall into spindles. I use a larger hammer to help seat in hammering only on the lower end of the st eering arm boss so as not to damage the new caps and rubbers.
- Note that there are “flats” on the steering arms that must match the angle on the spindles.
- Reinstall nuts and tighten to get the cotter key in horizontal – reinstall steering arm and tighten nut cotter keyed
- Note that a toe in will be required to obtain proper 1/16th toe in
This is so much easier than trying to do this in the car and getting the feel of each joint. Steering arm balls should be round, not football shaped. It’s amazing how much better they can steer with properly serviced and unworn parts.
Happy “A” Motoring!
